RUBHA REIDH

It was the last of the big three west coast headlands. The Point of Stoer and Cape Wrath had given two wonderful trips but Rubha Reidh had always seemed more austere somehow. Putting on at Charlestown near Gairloch, I remembered standing on the headland the previous summer. A 2m swell was running before a cold northerly wind and the race off the point looked intimidating. Today, all was quiet though the wind was forecast to rise rapidly the next day, so the plan was to get around and camp close to Poolewe, leaving just a short, relatively sheltered paddle for the morning. Which is exactly what we did.

There had been several orca sightings in the days prior and we stayed offshore for some time, hoping to see them, but inevitably the promise of caves and an unexplored coastline drew us back in before long.

The headland itself passed almost unnoticed but the fine cliffs and beaches beyond were superb, though by now the weather was changing rapidly, the sky darkening out to sea and the first drops of rain falling as we landed to set camp. The wind remained noticeable in its absence however and it was wet, midge ridden night spent hiding in the tents.

Unexpectedly, the morning brought blue skies and a gentle breeze, though it didn’t last long.

We never did see the orcas, though others did, that would be for another time. It was also my birthday. I ran back for the car for a special treat.